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Writer's pictureKatherine Kaczmarski

Day 36: Back in Belgrade!! and Serbian Folk Dance

Updated: Sep 12, 2022

6/11/22


After all the driving, we finally returned to Belgrade. We stayed in the same hotel we did before, and everyone felt a little like they were coming home. :)


I took today to do some shopping and walk around the city.

All of the sudden, it began to rain- and I mean RAIN hard, a downpour. Many people materialized their umbrellas that seemed to appear out of nowhere in an instant, and others ducked under covered shop entrances. I ran into an alcove myself and stayed there for 15 minutes as the rain poured just inches away from me. I was a bit damp, but knew I was having an adventure.


After that time, the rain didn't stop but lightened up periodically- and I and others timed our cowering, wet dashes to the covered next store front.

I strategically wove my way home, under trees and cafe umbrellas in timing with the rain. I didn't escape wet shoes and clothes though!! 🤣





Our professor said after lunch to my colleague and I, "If you want something sweet, follow me" and, intrigued, we walked with our professor to a shop I hadn't been in before, and what a nice surprise!


This place made dumplings- but no ordinary ones. Inside there is a filling depending on the flavor, and they had everything from praline to blackberry/passionfruit, which I got. It had blackberries and compote and passionfruit cream on the inside, and the outside was a savory dough.



 


That evening, we attended the performance by the National Folk Dance Ensemble, Kolo. They specialize in Serbian folk dance, travel internationally to perform, and are the best in the country.


It was a folk dance play with singing and playing performance. These elements made up a narrative, a story told using folk dance and music.



Toward the first part of the performance, I sensed pagan influences on the music and ritual-like dance. It was very stirring and made me think of our ancestors.

Then, the story took a more modern turn, depicting what could only be the wars and bloodshed, and life carrying on in between. There were scenes of battle, of mourning with gut wrenching, visceral song. I couldn't understand the language, but I got the meaning.


The expertise of this group's dance is dumbfounding too. The way they danced for 1.5 hours nonstop, lifted, spun and tossed, and coordinated with one another was incredible. And don't get me started on the music and musicians!! They played challenging material that moved the story and with the dancers very well.

See a snippet for yourself.





At the end, they took the red cloths that emerged in battle and death, came together, and jumped over them. Trauma can be put down and something made from it, it seems.

Very well done to the choreographers and the dancers who told this story so well it transcended language and touched on some things universally human.



I'd recommend seeing them to anyone who gets the opportunity.





Ćao for now!



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